© 1999 Robert A. Mackall
Québec City has long impressed us as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The warmth of its smallness refutes the definition of a city; however it's cosmopolitan sophistication demands the attribute. It is clean, orderly, completely livable and filled everywhere with sidewalk cafes and art and music. If I had to choose one adjective, it would be vibrant.The two day drive to Québec is an interesting prelude to appreciating the quiet charm of Canada. Driving the gauntlet between Cape Hatteras and New York City tests the nerves and soul as each year speeds get faster, trucks get bigger and bathrooms get more peculiar.
Above New York City, on the New York State Thruway, as the mountains begin to rise and fall around marvelous dairy farms and clear bluewater lakes; the air changes and you feel life sucked back into your soul. Now you can relax. And better yet, as we get north of Albany, traffic thins... even in late June.
Surprisingly, the border crossing on Interstate 87 at Rouses Point is free of any traffic. After a few routine questions, we are courteously invited into Canada with a "Please enter, my friend". Way to go Canada! Civility at a border crossing; what will they think of next.
We quickly change a small bit money at the border Welcome Center knowing that a better rate of exchange will be had at a full service bank. Travel Tip: Although full service city banks will pay the best rate of exchange don't count on the rates you read in the paper or on your internet currency convertor. The spread can be significant. The best exchange rate is through your credit card. "Don't leave the U.S. without it."
The drive to Montréal and then northeast out the TransCanada 20 is pleasantly agricultural as small, well kept family farms dot the open spaces and rolling hills. Understandably it is a bit busy around Montréal. But very quickly urban gives way to suburban to rural. I would have thought the growing season to be too short for agricultural endeavors. Evidently I was quite wrong.
We arrived in Québec on Saturday, June 23 which coincindently was the weekend of La Fête de St. Jean-Baptiste (The Feast Day of Saint John the Baptist). Secularly, it is known as La Fête Nationale, the most important provincial holiday of Québec and the Québecoise. We noted as checking into the Four Seasons Hotel (actually L' Hôtel-Motel 4 Saisons) in Notre-Dame-du-Bon-Conseil that the hotel-motel and its resturant were deserted. The concierge explained (as if we were from Mars or the US) that it was the Feast of Jean-Baptist and that everyone was observing the feast day. In my naîveté I imagined a devout French population, in church, observing a holyday of obligation. Not so. From what I can figure out it was a three day weekend of bonfires and raucous exuberance. Saint Jean-Baptist would be proud, I think.
Rising early we set out on local route 132 which hugs the St. Lawrence River passing through gorgeous farmland and tiny villages. Our arrival in Québec City is sudden as farmland gives way abruptly to two magnificent bridges which welcome you into the city.
The best way, the only way to experience Vieux Québec is afoot. The easiest access to public parking is from Autoroute 73 over the Pierre-Laporte Bridge to Boulevard Champlain which runs along the north bank of the Saint Lawrence to the lower city. A good local map is in order here. In any case, park and walk. Explore the lower city and its boutiques and cafés. Ascend to the upper city, the old walled city, and discover the parks, the sidewalk cafés, the street musicians and artists. Visit Le Château Frontenac whose visage dominates the skyline of the city, walk along the boardwalk, take a carriage ride. Take a river cruise or a ferry trip across the river to Lévis. So much to do and so little time. The highlights of our day in Québec City were a walk on the boardwalk, eating Caribou Burgers at a lovely Swiss sidewalk café, a carriage ride tour of the city, and look at the lobby of Le Château Frontenac . Still, the overwhelming attraction of Québec City is its cosmopolitan spirit, its diversity of language and visitor. It can be enough simply to walk around this most livable and surprising city.
