Quarry Island Dawn
© 2001 Robert A. Mackall
At 3:30AM I'm on deck and still have not made "first light". The boat is at anchor in the horseshoe shaped harbor which protects the small landing dock and pavillion of Quarry Island. Except for the numerous birds beginning their day's foraging and a single curious seal; everything, including the air, is completely still. Although we have broken clouds overhead, the east is clearing and a perfect "golden hour" of light commences.
The Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve is made up of 40 major islands and countless smaller islands, reefs and inlets over its 175 km length. With its anchorage, hiking, abundance of monolithes and interpretative activities; Quarry Island is one of the crown jewels in the Reserve. Today is our last full day aboard L'Écho Des Mers and one that will be filled with activity on Quarry island and later cruising among the islands making up the archipelego.Since the small dock is not of sufficient size to accomodate us, we will be tendered ashore by the first officer, M. Labrie, in the faithful Zodiac. As we begin the process of transferring 44 passengers and supplies ashore, a minke whale has appeared in the harbor and for hours moves effortlessly back and forth along the shoreline feeding on capelin and other food material swept in and out and among these food rich island waters. We've become so accustomed to whales that after a few minutes we leave him to his brunch. He never gave us a moment's notice.
Once ashore, we are met by an intreperative guide from Parks Canada who leads us on a 4 km discovery hike of Quarry Island from the harbor side dock, through the boreal forest and peat bogs of middle Quarry Island to the huge flowerpot monolithes on the beach on on the Gulf of St. Lawrence side. Marie-Joële's talk has really paid off. Not only do we see everything she presented but we remembered what it was! Once we arrive at the monolithes, we are free to wander to our hearts' content. One fellow adventurer decided to hike the long semicircle over the cliffs back to the ship.
After a long morning of hikes and explorations, we are ready for lunch which today is the Captain's Barbecue on shore at the harbor side pavillion. As pictured above, Chef Claude (aka Seaman Claude) and Victoria prepare shish-ka-bobs; while in the pavillion; Marie-Odile and Marie-Joëlle roast potatoes in the fireplace and prepare tables of additional food. Captain Boudreau comes ashore and helps us celebrate this exhilarating day in the Mingan Archipelago. Victoria remembers and brings me my favorite oatmeal raisin cookies from the ship's cookie jar. Mes amis, il ne devient pas mieux que ceci.
After lunch we are slow to leave and be tendered back to L'Écho Des Mers... lest paradise be lost. However; leave we do, just as rain showers and wind arrive. The weather puts a bit of a damper on our cruising the islands of the archipelago; but a few of us hardy souls appear on deck to observe the seals and a few whales for whom weather is not even a distraction. Our only disappointment is not being able to pass by Île aux Perroquets and its exquisite lighthouse standing high on the island's cliffs announcing the western entrance to the archipelago.
