Whale watching in le Golfe du Saint-Laurent
© 1999 Robert A. Mackall
Dawn comes early here. So early that we're surprised to find that northeastern Québec is in the Eastern time zone. I'm told that up here, during the summer months, it never gets really, really dark. There may be some truth to this. I am an early riser but never did I catch up with the earliest morning light. This morning I'm out on deck with coffee before 5:00AM to watch us slip past the Baie-Sainte-Claire Lighthouse on the west tip of Île d'Anticosti. Monsieur Fontaine is on deck and tells me some of the history of this part of Anticosti Island and points out a derelict ship washed ashore some years ago. I learn that the blue whale at the Natural History Museum in Raleigh, NC is from Anticosti. I am beginning to understand what a treasure this man is. We are now entering the Détroit de Jacques-Cartier and heading in a beeline for Harve-Saint-Pierre where we will arrive in the early afternoon.As a prelude to breakfast it should be noted that coffee and tea are available around the clock in the main dining room. In addition to that consideration, there are bowls of fresh fruit everywhere, all day to snack on. No scurvy on this boat! Bravo, this was more than thoughtful.
Breakast is sometimes served, sometimes a buffet; it is always plentiful and delicious with an array of breads, croissants, yougart, cereals, and fruit. When served, it may be sausage and eggs or blueberry pancakes with incredible maple syrup. It is a leisurely affair, particularly if we are not in port, with a bit of table hopping as we continue to become acquainted with our new friends.
Harve-Saint-Pierre is a busy little place. Too big to be a village, hardly a city; we will call it a town... but just barely. We arrive in the early afternoon having cruised along the islands of the Mingan Archipeligo. As we thread our way through the islands, we are greeted in port by the presence of the Canadian Prospector taking on a load of ore for processing. Three industries rule here: mining, fishing, and tourism. This is not a sleepy town; pick-up trucks are everywhere with plenty of traffic on the road... although I could not figure out where they were all going. The railroad comes through here. They have an airport as well. Busy, busy little place.
Our touring of Harve-Saint-Pierre begins after lunch with a visit to the Interpertation Center which explores the history of the region with displays and artifacts. After a short stroll around town we come back to the Interpretation Center for an inspirational presentation of slides and poetry by Roland Jomphe, le poet du Minganie. This was indeed the highlight of the day. Afterwards we have the opportuntiy to visit an exhibition of art by Marcel Turbis, un artiste du Minganie. However, Katie and I choose to continue our exploration of town with a long walk through the neighborhood, past the school, the cemetery, and the hospital down to the marina where small boats carry tourists to the islands of the archipeligo. It is a busy, busy little place with so much to do.
As we drift back to our boat for a 4:00PM departure other passengers have spotted salmon coming aboard for dinner, fresh from a boat docked next to us. We watch freshly caught snow crabs being off loaded from another boat to a waiting refrigerated truck. Bound for Montréal, I suspect. But ours will be fresher!Lines are cast off and we pass again through the islands of the archipeligo heading still further north to Harrington Harbor, an English speaking village deep in the heart of Québec. We retire to the lounge for cocktails and conversation before dinner. Dinner is at 6:30PM and is magnificent. After dinner tonight there is a talk in the lounge by Monsieur Fontaine who guides us through the identification features of the various North Atlantic whales that we may encounter. He has brought a multitude of artifacts for us to touch and see. We are like 4th graders... it is wonderful.
