The Cabot Trail and Cape Breton Highlands
Click here for some great pictures of Cape Breton courtesy of the Terrain Sciences Division of Natural Resources Canada .
Sunday, July 8
Ahhh, Paradise Lost. No hurry to get up and get going this mourning as the ferry doesn't leave North Sydney until 3:30PM. After saying Au Revoir, see ya in another two years to the Arsenaults; we struck out toward Cape Smokey headed for the Bras d'Or. It's always kinda neat to retrace footsteps on a sunny day after a rainy day. It's like a completely different trip and that's what we did to get to Ingonish.We were delighted to see that Seaquarium Whale Watch Tours was still operating from the small harbor in Ignonish. We took Captain Donovan's boat two years ago while staying in Ingonish and still remember the minke whale and seal sightings as well as sailing around magnificent Cape Smokey. By the way, Ingonish is the name of a single small town as well as the name of a resort area made up of 5 different "Ingonishes": first, in the north, Ingonish, followed by Ingonish Centre, then Ingonish Beach, then Ingonish Harbour, and lastly, in the south, Ingonish Ferry. We can't keep them straight and will not expect you to either. The area is home to the best in Nova Scotian skiing and golfing and is taking on all the attributes of a firstclass vacation area. And without a doubt you will want to stay at the Keltic Lodge where the best in hospitality and special events are offered. Unless, of course, you are cheapskates like us and in that case you will want to stay at the Sea Breeze Cottages and Motel which is completely reasonable in price, offers an unsurpassed view of the ocean from your front door and is close to everything in the Ingonish area.
On the far side of the Ingonishes the drive remains lovely and spotted increasingly with artisan and craft shops. These are the shops of some very impressive Cape Breton artists working in a number of different mediums and you will want to spend some time discovering their talents. In South Gut St. Anne's be certain to stop at the Gaelic College if just for the gift shop. This is a major center for the preservation of the Gaelic language as well as Gaelic music and local genealogy. It is a beautiful campus and deserving of a stop. Just beyond the Gaelic College you meet the intersection of Route 105. South on 105 continues on the Cabot Trail to Baddeck while North on 105 delivers you to the Sydney area. Since we are heading to the Newfoundland ferry in North Sydney we go north.From past trips to Cape Breton we want to bring to your attention two very, very noteworthy stops south from here. In Baddeck do not fail to take in the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. One of Canada's great inspirational experiences is to learn about the life and work of Alexander Graham Bell, one of the truly great human beings of all time. You gotta stop here.
Further South, off 105 and across the ferry on Route 223, in Iona is the Highland Village celebrating the Gaelic experience in Nova Scotia. On 43 acres overlooking the beautiful Bras d'Or Lakes, Nova Scotia's Scottish culture comes alive with costumed staff, farm animals and buildings & artifacts over several periods. If you are of Irish or Scottish ancestory this site will be a meaningful experience for you.
The drive to North Syndey is surprisingly senic as the road rises steeply over a high pass to enter the most heavily populated and industrialized portions of Cape Breton. So at about 2:00PM on Sunaday we arrived at the port of north Sydney, found the ferry dock with no problem as the roads ends where you roll into the mouth of the bow of the ship; and at 3:30 PM, on schedule, we take off for Newfoundland.
