Salty Mariner's Inn and Motel
© 2001 Robert A. Mackall
This was our third trip to Pleasant Bay and our third stay at the Salty Mariner's Motel and Inn. We would not ever consider staying elsewhere. Not ever. Simply put; this is perfect and perfect is not a word that I use lightly. The motel/inn is decoratively appointed, comfortable and reasonable in price. There are spectacular views of the Highland Mountain on two sides with Pleasant Bay Harbor and the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the other sides. With over twenty acres of property, the Salty Mariner provides plenty of open space to relax and stretch and stroll either on the beach or along the cliffs. The cliffs are a natural viewing spot for whales who frolic in the warm, food rich water or for watching the lobster and crab boats coming and going or for just enjoying an unsurpassed sunset over the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. Our favorite spot is the open gazebo at the top of the hill. It is that perfect place to enjoy fresh gulf breezes or read a book on a rainy day. The focal point of the Salty Mariner is their Tin Pan Galley Resturant which delights the palate with local seafood and specials. Recognized as a Where to Eat in Canada resturant, the Tin Pan Galley combines fantastically prepared and presented cuisine with an ambience of sight and sound unsupassed in Cape Breton. It is so unexpectedly civilized in these wild Highlands that it is the perfect accoutrement to a day spent in Paradise. Folks, don't miss this place. And be certain to tell the owners, Valerie and Lawrence Arsenault, that we sent you!The Village of Pleasant Bay is as interesting as our favorite motel. The environs are majestic as the mountains come down to meet the sea. The harbor is small and filled with brightly painted commercial fishing boats and a tiny fleet of whale watching cruises. Adjacent to the harbor is the new Pleasant Bay Whale Interpretation Center a must do while in the area. There is, of course, a variety of resturants, gift shops, and artisans to occupy even the most antsy of visitor. What I really, really like about Pleasant Bay is the fact that while it does not have a gas station, it does have an Internet Cafe! Priorities, n' est pas. Beyond the immediate perimeter of town is a cornucopia of hiking trails both within and outside the National Park to explore. Our favorite spot is off the Cabot Trail, out past the even smaller town of Red River, past the Buddist Monastery, Gampo Abbey, to the end of the gravel road above Pollet Cove. What an incredible spot for a picnic or hike!
Rainy days and sunny days and partly cloudy days are all perfect reading days. So while in the Breton Highlands pick up a few books of Cape Breton short stories or biographies to read. The story telling is exquiste whether it be a tall tale, a bit of personal history, or an emotional short story. These folks write with a panache that has staying power. Our second day in Pleasant Bay was marred by just such a rainy day which dashed our plans for a whale watching cruise and any hiking. Instead we decided to checkout the neighborhood craft shops and then head out over the mountain and check the weather and shops in the Cape North area. As you pass out of the National Park on the way to Cape North watch out for and stop at Cranberry Patch Fine Arts and Gifts. Then just outside of Dingwall stop and shop at its sister store, Country Craft Giftshop. We were impressed with both the diversity of Cape Breton crafts offered and the prices. By happenstance lobster season had ended and the lobster fishermen had just pulled their pots from the water. As the old ones, the traditional wooden ones, are rotated out of service they are offered up for sale at the harbors, in the gift shops and in the driveways of private homes. We were fortunate to pickup one in pristine condition for $5.00 Canadian. The only drawback was the necessity of hauling it all over Nova Scotia and Newfoundland in the backseat of the car. You'll find it in our front yard waiting for any unsuspecting land lobsters.
One of the great side trips off the Cabot Trail is the road along Asby Bay to Bay St. Lawrence and Meat Cove. So make that left turn in Cape North at Morrison's Resturant and head to the headlands of Cape Breton. Bay St. Lawrence is a quiet fishing village where you will find Captain Cox's Whale Watching Tours. When you leave port from here I don't know if you are in the Atlantic Ocean or the Gulf of St. Lawrence. I do know that it is completely cool to reach the headlands of Cape Breton at its most northerly point and sail into those waters that John Cabot sailed in 1497 when he "discovered" and laid claim to North America for England. After visiting Bay St. Lawrence make a right turn at the signpost and head for Capstick and Meat Cove. The views along this road are unsurpassed anywhere. The paved road ends at Capstick and a decently maintained but hair raising gravel road takes you to Meat Cove and the cliffs at the Meat Cove Campground. In late June or early July it's still very quiet here and for $2.00 it is possible to picnic on the cliffs of the campground and watch the humpback migration and the whale watching boats in the distance. The folks at the campground can help you with hiking the area as well. This is one of Bob's "must see" places in the world... but don't tell anyone about it.
The other side of Cape North begins (or ends) the east side of the Cabot Trail. There is an increase in business activity on this side; happily it is all small and family operated. Just south of Dingwall take the Shore Road south to White Point and Neil Harbor. (Actually the scenic drive is better going to Neil Harbor to get on the Shore Road and then heading north to White Point.) Neil Harbor is one of those perfect picture towns with a lighthouse and boats and a harbor. Ingeniously, the base of the lighthouse is an ice cream shop. Spend some time here taking pictures, stopping in the craft shop and visiting the lighthouse. White Point Harbor is a neat place for pictures. In addition, it is the trail head of a short but very scenic hike out to the cliffs and a cemetery. A very cool place.South from Neil Harbor we reenter the National Park and enjoy some of the most scenic ocean landscapes in Nova Scotia. Again the rules are simple: 1) Go slow and enjoy everything. 2) Stop often and take in everything. 3) Get out of the car and investigate everything. We drove as far as Ingonish to see if anything had changed in two years. Nothing had. Satisfied with the status quo we returned to Pleasant Bay via a few more craft shops, had a scrumptious diner at the Tin Pan Galley and prepared for tomorrow's trip to North Sydney and our departure for Newfoundland. Leaving Pleasant Bay is never pleasant and we would have prefered to stay a few more days; however we had confirmed reservations on the once a week ferry to Argentia, Newfoundland and our departure could not be delayed.
