Pleasant Bay, Cape Breton Island
© 2001 Robert A. Mackall
While Quebec is a magnificent province - filled with wonderful people, beautiful scenery and an unsurpassed culture; our hearts remain steadfast to Cape Breton. It is a Celtic thing. We identify better with the descendents of Irish and Scot immigrants. Their music moves our souls as well as our toes. When we cross the Canso Causeway and the gentle rounded hills of mainland Nova Scotia give way to the beautiful fish filled lakes of the Bras d'Or and the rugged highland mountains of the Cabot Trail, we cannot help but believe that this is from where "our people" came in Scotland and Ireland. It feels like a homeland... it is comfortable.Our drive from New Brunswick into Nova Scotia was uneventual. As it was our third trip into Nova Scotia we did not do any of the usual tourist things. However we would always recommend a side trip out of New Glasgow on Route 245 to visit Cape George and in particular the Cape George Lighthouse. It is a delightful prelude to the rugged mountains of Cape Breton and you will have the opportunity to stop at MacKay Fish and Chips, a unpretentious carryout shack near the wharf in Ballantynes Cove which has been described as having the absolutely best Fish and Chips in North America. A bit of advertising puffery with which we happen to agree.
On the Cape Breton side of the Canso Causeway, the deepest man-made causeway in the world, you are faced with the Robert Frost dilemma of which road to take. Route 104 leads to St. Peter's and the southern Bras d'Or lake region. Route 105, the major road, leads to Baddeck and the northern Bras d'Or lake region. Route 19, the road least taken, travels up the west coast of Cape Breton. As we always take the road least taken, after a quick stop in the excellent visitor center at the Port Hastings traffic circle, we choose Route 19.
On the north side of the small town of Judique, we tried stopping at The Tin Fiddler for some exceptional Cape Breton style tin crafting. Unfortunately it was not open for the season and we vowed to return on our way home. This is also the stomping grounds of Canada's brilliant fiddler, Natalie MacMaster. Do not fail to purchase her music. In fact buy a bunch of it. At Mabou and above be prepared to look at and do everything possible... both on the coast side and inland around Lake Ainsle and the Margaree Valley. You will not be disappointed. This area is deceptively low-key; but it is exceptionally rich in Cape Breton traditional music and scenery. In the town of Margaree Forks we join the "Cabot Trail" - descibed by National Geographic as one of the world's most scenic drives. The Cabot Trail is a grand circular route and having driven thrice around it we prefer a clockwise rotation so as to enjoy the Margaree Valley and Inverness County first before the busier Victoria County and Baddeck area. Actually the drive between Cheticamp and Ingonish Beach is about 115km (70 miles) and is so spectacular that it should be repeated in each direction.
The west gateways to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park are the Arcadian towns of Cheticamp and St-Joseph-du-Moine. The French influence here is unmistakeable and we feel like we are back in Quebec. It is also the last gas stop for 70km. Without fail stop at Joe's Scarecrows in St-Joseph-du-Moine for a bit of fun and a snack. It is not describable in words. Just stop and see it... you can't miss it. And just north of Cheticamp don't miss Aucoin's Bakery in Petit Etang for some very excellent baked goods. It's just off the main road on the left so you have keep an eye out for it. Cheticamp itself is a very busy little town. A bit too busy for our tastes; however, the town boardwalk along the water and stores is quite attractive.Within the park itself the first stop is at the Visitor Center to secure maps, watch a video, get some advice and to cough up a bit of change in fees for the pleasure of just being there. With map, camera, and permit in hand drive slowly and savor each and every mile the beauty of this wonderful place. Look back every once in awhile and get a completely different perspective on from where you have just been. Better yet re-drive the trail from Ingonish in the opposite direction. So then onwards about 42km (26 miles) to Pleasant Bay and that little bit of earth we call Paradise.
