Newfoundland Perrier
© 2001 Robert A. Mackall
The Trans-Canada Highway is Newfoundland's ONLY east-west road. Let me say this again, the Trans-Canada Highway is Newfoundland's ONLY east-west road. Other than the Trans-Canada the only way to go east-west is by boat or hiking trail. Until it's completion in the 1960s Newfoundland was divided geologically into numerous regionally diverse areas... each centered on the sea or logging; each with its own customs, culture, and linquistic style. Having driven the over 500 miles across upper Newfoundland and the over 300 miles of its western spine, we easily understand how different this great island must have been before the Trans-Canada. Its surface area of 42,000 square miles (108,860 square km) makes it roughly the size of the State of Virginia. Its population of 500,000 is less than that of the city of Washington D.C. The cultural and linguistic diversity of Newfoundland is quickly shrinking... catch it while you can.
The Trans-Canada drive across Newfoundland from St. John's to Deer Lake in the rain and fog is a study in the monotony of trees and hills. Trees are to Newfoundland as wheat is to Kansas. On the other hand, the north coast of Newfoundland is so filled with penisulas and bays and islands and ferries and villages that a week's vacation could be spent simply exploring this sublime shoreline... you simply need the good weather (of which there is an abundance). And if you go in June, the icebergs should be out in their full glory.At Deer Lake in western Newfoundland we finally leave the Trans-Canada and start the trek north on Route 430, better known as the Viking Trail, which will carry us all the way to St. Anthony and L'Anse Aux Meadows. The Viking Trail is perhaps the most majestic drive on the coast of Eastern North America with the Long Range Mountains with its fjords and snow pack on the right and the Bay of St. Lawrence and the Strait of Belle Isle with its tiny fishing villages on the left. It is sparsely populated except for moose who love to appear out of nowhere to cross this one paved road. Gracious it is beautiful here.
L'Anse Aux Meadows sits at the extreme northern tip of the western spine of Newfoundland at the end of the Long Range Mountains. It is an UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site of Canada in consideration of its significance as the first and oldest proven Viking Settlement in North America.
Finally the sunshine breaks through the quickly disapating rain clouds and we enjoythe entrance to the Gros Morne National Park in the superb light of late afternoon. As we enter the park itself we spot our first moose on the roadside contently grazing and oblivious to the few cars that have now parked and started the ritual of tourist pictures. A Parks Canada Ranger arrives on the scene to let everyone know not to get too close and to mind on-coming cars and DON"T FEED THE ANIMALS. He departs and leaves us to our own devices. Considerably different breed of Ranger here in Canada. At home they are trying to take away our access to the beach. God forbid that we look crosseyed at any animal.Click here for more pictures of Northwest Newfoundland courtesy of the Terrain Science Division of Natural Resources Canada.We continue north through the Gros Morne Park knowing that we will be returning for a more extended stay later in the week. Our aim this afternoon is to make St. Barbie and then head for Anse Aux Meadows in the morning. The drive north of Gros Morne is absent of traffic but abundant of such beautiful scenery that we wonder why the rest of the world is not here. The Long Range Mountains here are flat topped mountains which in July still hold ice-pack snow. The mountains drop into a boggy marsh land where the small available tracts of dry land is prized and cultivated. Between the mountains themselves are gorgeous fjord like lakes which can extnd miles inland. As all of this sweeps down to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we enjoy the small quaint fishing villages and fishing camps that dot the landscape. Everywhere is lumber drying tepee style for winter heating. Everywhere are skidoos waiting where left from last winter for the first snows of the season to come.
We make St. Barbe which is the terminus of the Blanc Sablon - Newfoundland ferry at the fall of evening . You remember Blanc Sablon; we were there about 10 days ago. St. Barbe is small with low topped buldings; seemingly accustomed to snow and wind and winter. There is not a lot to do in St. Barbe; but our dinner and stay at the Dockside Motel was comfortable and fun. One of the neat things about this part of the world is the relative absence of other travellers. So we get to joke and laugh with the resturant staff who are always happy for new company.
UNDER CONSTRUCTION: More text and pictures coming.
If you have comments, questions or suggestions; please email me at rmackall@yahoo.com
